The Best View of Xi'an Is from a Bicycle, 40 Feet Up
There are two ways to see Xi’an: from the ground up, amidst the bustle of the streets, or from a dynasty down, with a commanding view from atop its magnificent ancient wall. I highly recommend the latter. Renting a bicycle and circumnavigating the city on these massive fortifications isn't just a tour; it’s an act of freedom, a journey that lets you physically trace the boundary between Xi'an's imperial past and its dynamic present.
As you start to pedal on the wide, surprisingly smooth ramparts, the city’s soundtrack changes. On your inner side, you hear the distant symphony of the Muslim Quarter—the sizzle of street food, the calls of vendors, the chime of a temple bell. On your outer side, you see the hum of the future: the sleek lines of skyscrapers and the endless flow of traffic. The 14-kilometer (8.7-mile) ride is a gentle adventure, a chance to stop at ancient gatehouses, peer through watchtower windows, and feel like a guardian of the city.
Insider Tip:
Ride the wall in the late afternoon, about two hours before sunset. Not only will you avoid the midday heat, but you'll be rewarded with a spectacular show as the setting sun casts a golden glow over the old city's rooftops and the wall's iconic red lanterns begin to light up, guiding your way home.
